By nine o'clock the sun on the top of the gharry is overpowering. We are quite overcome by the heat, and abandoning all idea of going by the steam tramway to Cholons, the neighbouring emporium of the Rice of Annam, return on board. But at eleven o'clock the thermometer in the shade registered 95° Fahrenheit, and in the sun about 130°, and we lay on the deck ready to succumb to the awful breathless heat, just existing through the long midday hours of the worst part of the day.
The tropical vegetation of Saigon had entranced us, but its charms faded before the experience of this equatorial temperature by which alone it can be produced. We were grateful when at five o'clock the twenty-four hours' sojourn required by the Government contract were over, and we left Cochin China on our homeward voyage.
It is a long, long journey home to England, this one of 10,000 miles from Shanghai to London—lasting for five weeks.
Day after day goes by with the same routine, until we feel that we are automatons. Passengers come and go at the various ports, but "we go on for ever." Night and day there is heard the ceaseless throbbing of the engines, like the beating heart of some great monster. It lulls you to sleep, keeps you company in the silence of the night, and greets you in the morning, and when we are in port, we unconsciously feel that something is wanting. It is a cheering noise, for every revolution of the screw brings us nearer home; 4368 times does it revolve in one hour, and it takes 3,600,000 revolutions to bring us to Marseilles. We consume 52 tons of coal a day, or 1800 tons for the whole voyage, whilst 8000 kilos of oil are used for the machinery.
The ship is like a floating city with a cosmopolitan population, for we have over twenty different nationalities on board: French, English, German, Spanish, Italian, Japanese, Russian, Chinese, Dutch, Austrians, Arabians, Indians, etc., and yet all goes smoothly, save for the passing incident of a passionate Frenchman, who came to ask the captain's permission to fight a duel with an officer from Tonquin, for usurping his place at table.
It is a monotonous thirty-six days of life at sea, alternating with frantic rushes to land, when in port, and sometimes sleeping on shore, where, like at Singapore and Colombo, the ship is hermetically sealed for coaling. Then there is dire confusion on board, everyone loses his head, the stewards are beside themselves, and the organization becomes sadly out of gear. We are thankful to put out to sea once more, into the breeze and calm, to sail away into that great trackless space so well defined "as a circle whose centre is everywhere, and whose circumference nowhere."
We touch at Singapore, and spend the night at Government House, noting the growth of the town, and the great improvements since we were there six years ago. Through the Straits of Malacca, past Acheen Head, the extreme westerly point of Sumatra to Colombo—Colombo with its beautiful sea-shore, where amidst palm groves, the blue breakers of the Indian Ocean are ever rolling in, and casting their surf and foam on the golden sands. Through its tropical avenues we drive, past the barracks, where the pipe of the bagpipes is heard, wailing in their far exile, and the handsome Cingalese merchants, with their checked sarongs and tortoiseshell combs, tempt us with precious stones. Mount Adam, with his pillar-like peak, in the centre of Ceylon, does us honour by showing himself (a rare occurrence) as we put out once more to sea, through the magnificent breakwater of Colombo.
Six days' steaming, and we cast anchor under rocky Aden, whose peaks so barren and sterile, are yet picturesquely deformed, and glowing with warm tints of cobalt and carmine. Then we enter the Red Sea, through the Straits of Babelmandeb, by England's key to the Eastern hemisphere, the Island of Perim, and pass fragrant Mocha on the sandy shore.
One hundred hours through this inland sea, and we are at Suez waiting our turn to enter that great highway of nations, that sandy ditch cut through the desert, that connects the eastern with the western globe. In the daytime we have that strange fascination linked to the boundless plain of sand—the mirage flickering on the horizon, the clear pale blue and pink shades that steal over the desert at sundown, with the golden glory of the sunset sinking slowly into the waters of the Bitter Lake, whilst at night the banks of the canal are illuminated by the broad shafts of light, that sweep from the electric lamp in the bows of every ship.
We spend a dreary Sunday at Port Said, amid its dirty streets, rubbishy oriental shops, thievish donkey-boys, and a population which gathers in the scum of the earth.
The Harbour of Alexandria is entered at sunrise next day, and we look in the dull chill of early morning on its quays and forts, its mosqued domes and windmills, but ere the day is really begun we are on our way joyfully cleaving the waters of the Mediterranean, near, so near home now. The chill winds and the grey atmosphere would make us know we are in Europe once more. The hard even-coloured skies of the East, burning with brazen sun, have been left on the other side of the Canal, and now the skies are full of grey and purple clouds, silver-edged, soft and rounded. The Southern Cross has sunk below the horizon, the brilliant starlight nights, with the purple vault of heaven gemmed with diamond stars, have faded into the past.
Now the snow-clad mountains of Candia or Crete rise up from the ocean above low-lying clouds. Then, the danger of avoiding Charybdis to be wrecked on Scylla safely passed, we thread the green Straits of Messina between the toe of Italy and the Island of Sicily. The smoking cone of Etna is invisible, but the little island volcano of Stromboli shoots forth its black column of lava.
The beacon lighthouses of the Straits of Bonifacio mark out our course between the islands of Sardinia and Corsica. And by the next afternoon the vine-terraced mountains and sunny shores of the Corniche are near at hand, with the white villas of Toulon shining in the sunlight.
The last day on board, the last packing, the last dinner, the last evening. What a pleasant bustle of departure, what a feeling of bonne camaraderie prevails! With the contagious sympathy of joy, passengers speak to each other who have held aloof for the whole month's voyage. We are all restless and excited, and only able to discuss the hour of arrival—no, not the hour, it is the half-hours and quarters that we dispute and wager about.
The sun goes down. The great white cliffs—for they are very near to us now—loom up ghostly in the dim twilight; these are bathed in pink reflections from the rosy sky. We see the little chapel perched on high, where the sailors implore the protection of the sainted Mary ere commencing a voyage—the gloomy dungeon fortress of Château d'If on its island, and with the last gleams of daylight we sight the green Prado, the cathedral towers of Notre Dame, and the large seaport of Marseilles.
For two days we linger in the sunny south, under blue skies and warm sunshine, amid the palms, cacti, and hedges of roses.
We reach Paris in time to see the gorgeous obsequies at the Madeleine of Dom Pedro, the ex-Emperor of Brazil. Then ends our second journey round the world with a fearful gale in the English Channel, reaching Charing Cross in the raw cold and fog of a December night.
APPENDIX
BY C. E. HOWARD VINCENT, C.B., M.P
BRITISH AND AMERICAN TRADE IN CANADA
MEMORANDUM
Addressed to the Chamber of Commerce and Manufacture of Sheffield upon British and American Trade in the Dominion of Canada and the McKinley Tariff in the United States.
September, 1891.
Internal Trade
1.—It is necessary in the first place to state that the internal trade of Canada has made vast progress during the past decade. Not only is this evident from the numerous factories at the principal centres, but it is corroborated by the rapid extension and development of Toronto, Hamilton, Winnipeg and other towns. Manufacture has taken such rapid strides that not only is a very large proportion of the articles in daily use of home make, but the whole of the iron bridges and much of the plant upon the gigantic railway system, and the greater part of the agricultural machinery are of Canadian construction, but there is a surplusage for export of certain manufactured goods, amounting in the fiscal year ending June, 1890, to 5¾ million dollars—upwards of two-fifths of which were purchased by the British flag.
Increase of External Trade
2.—The external trade (imports and exports) has also increased from 153 million dollars in 1879, when the "National Policy" was inaugurated by the late Right Honourable Sir John Macdonald, to 218 million dollars in the last statistical year.
Imports from the United Kingdom and the Empire.
3.—The imports from the United Kingdom of British and Irish produce have increased from 5,040,524l. in 1879, to 7,702,798l. in 1889.
In the twelve months, July 1st, 1889, to June 30th, 1890, the purchases by Canada from the British Empire amounted to 45¾ million dollars, or only 6½ million dollars less than from the United States with their 60,000,000 of people and conterminous frontier of over 3000 miles, running especially close to the more settled and affluent portions of the Dominion.
This is the more satisfactory when it is considered that less than one-fourth of the British imports were admitted free of a duty averaging 25 per cent. ad valorem, while two-fifths of the American imports were from their nature untaxed.
Competition Between British and American Flags
4.—The Union Jack upon the one hand, and the Stars and Stripes upon the other, are practically the only two competitors for the custom of Canada, and they absorb between them 98 million dollars worth of the import trade out of a total of 112 million dollars.
Superiority of England
5.—In most of the great lines of manufactured goods, such as in the manufactures of iron and steel: of cutlery; of cotton and silk; of wool and linen; of lead, paper and fur; of hemp, twine and earthenware, as also in hats, gloves, combs, umbrellas, embroideries, ribbons, crapes, oilcloth, iron furniture, fancy articles, and in bottled ale, beer and porter, England more than holds her own against the American Republic.
Foreign Intermixture
6.—At the same time it is right to observe that a considerable and increasing proportion of the imports officially attributed to British production were in reality of German, French, or other foreign origin, and this to an amount exceeding last year six million dollars.
They were obtained, however, through English distributing houses instead of direct, partly by reason of transit facilities, but mostly on account of the long credit readily accorded.
Lead of the United States
7.—The United States on the other hand take the lead with manufactures of brass and copper; of gutta-percha and India-rubber; of slate, stone, and wood; of cork and glass; of leather and tin ware, as also in edge tools, Britannia metal, bells, brushes, buttons, carriages, clocks and watches, jewellery, musical and surgical instruments, and in agricultural implements.
Sheffield Trade in Canada
8.—In the staple trades of Sheffield, with the exception of edge-tools, the ascendency of England is fairly well maintained.
Cutlery
9.—Especially is this the case with regard to cutlery. Out of 311,897 dollars (say 62,500l.) worth of table knives, jack knives, pocket knives, and other cutlery imported into the Dominion during the past year, about two-thirds came from the United Kingdom.
Of the remainder the United States supplied 27,900 dollars worth, and Germany 43,500 dollars worth.
Not a few importers of Sheffield cutlery speak anxiously, however, of the growing competition of Newark (New Jersey) and of Germany—especially in the production of attractively got up and elegantly carded knives at low prices.
In Canada itself only one attempt has, I believe, been made to establish a cutlery factory, and this recently at Halifax by a young Sheffield man, assisted by six or eight Sheffield trained artisans. They speak hopefully of their prospects and are meeting with much local encouragement.
Plated Cutlery
It is right to add that although throughout the Dominion the table cutlery bears the names of the leading Sheffield houses, the more easily cleaned plated cutlery is coming into some use. During the past year 919 dozen were imported, to which the United States contributed 774 dozen and Great Britain only 140.
Files
10.—In files and rasps the import from England amounted to 34,358 dollars (say 6800l.), and from the United States to 45,724 dollars.
Saws
11.—In saws the United States made even greater headway with a total consignment amounting to 14,000l., while Great Britain sent scarcely 600l. worth.
Edge Tools
12.—A like disproportion occurs with regard to edge tools, of which the United States supplied 15,000 dollars worth out of a total external purchase by the Dominion of 18,279 dollars.
This has been explained by the untiring efforts constantly made by American manufacturers and their employés to make all tools more and more adapted for the purpose in view, lighter and more facile to the hand, without the slightest regard to former use, old ideas or customs.
Axes
13.—It is frequently alleged that Sheffield lost the Canadian axe trade by adherence to the opinion that it was a better judge of the shape of the handle or the chopper than the backwoodsmen whose livelihood depended upon the skilful use of the axe.
This must, however, be legendary, for I am told we never had the Dominion axe trade.
In any case, at the present time nearly all the axes used in the vast lumber industry are of Canadian make, and out of a total import of 6751 dollars worth last year, the whole came from the United States, with the exception of a single axe contributed by France.
Spades and Shovels.
14.—Of spades and shovels 4000 dollars worth were imported from Great Britain against 6259 dollars worth from the United States
Scythes
In scythes the two countries each supplied one half of a total import of 6731 dollars worth.
Agricultural Implements
15.—But in other agricultural implements—ploughs, drills, harrows, forks, rakes, mowing machines, harvesters, etc., America supplied no less than 117,000 dollars worth, against only 4000 dollars worth, from Great Britain.
The explanation given is similar to that I have often heard in Australasia, that the high-priced, solid made, somewhat heavy and durable machines and implements which find favour in England, are unsuitable for Colonists with small capital, who want a cheap, handy and light implement which can be replaced as soon as a year or two brings easier means, and sees improvements perfected.
It is indeed stated in proof of the adoption of like ideas in the mother country that more Ontario-made self-binding reapers have been sold this year in Great Britain than any of English manufacture.
Bar Iron, Pigs, Rails, etc
16.—It is, however, in bar iron; in boiler or other plate iron; in hoop, band, or scroll iron; in iron, in slabs, blooms, etc.; in iron pigs; in railway bars, rails and fish plates; in rolled iron or steel angles, beams, girders, etc.; in sheet iron, and in wrought iron or steel tubing that the United Kingdom asserts the greatest predominance with an importation last year into Canada amounting to 2,356,523 dollars against 642,129 dollars worth from the United States—that is, nearly fourfold.
At Londonderry in Nova Scotia important rolling mills have been established, and at Toronto and elsewhere in Ontario there are prosperous foundries.
Machinery
17.—England though falls back again seriously in machinery, composed wholly or in part of iron, in locomotive, fire, or other engines, and in cast iron vessels, plates, etc., as also in builders', cabinet makers', carriage and harness makers' hardware, and in house furnishing hardware.
In these lines Great Britain supplied Canada with only about 100,000l. worth, compared to 500,000l. from the United States.
In connection with machinery it may not be amiss to mention the almost invariable practice, throughout the American continent, for all machinery under the control either of the State or public bodies being kept spotlessly clean and as attractive as possible, and, in the case of all stationary engines, allowing the public to see them in operation, from a gallery or other suitable place, so that humble mechanical genius may feast its eyes, and think out problems or improvements, which may advance their authors to wealth, and place further names upon the roll of the world's inventors.
Electro-Plate and Britannia Metal
18.—In electro-plated ware and gilt ware of all kinds the import from Great Britain amounted last year to 51,041 dollars, and to 98,669 dollars from the United States, while in manufactures of Britannia metal (not plated) the importation from America amounted to 40,000 dollars, or eight times that from Great Britain.
Predominance of British Manufactures of Cotton and Wool
19.—It is not necessary to examine in like detail the relative trade in the Dominion of Great Britain and the United States in the manufactures which are not located in Sheffield. But it may be mentioned that the purchases by Canada of British cotton goods exceeded three million dollars last year against one-fifth that amount from the United States, in velveteens exceeded 82,000 dollars from Britain against only 356 dollars from America: while the sale to Canadians of British manufactures of wool were over ten million dollars, or too times that of the States.
The Empire, Canada's best Customer
20.—While, as has been shown, Canada bought last year of Great Britain and Ireland, and British possessions, to an amount exceeding forty-five millions of dollars, the Empire was in return the best customer of the Dominion, purchasing no less than 44,479,992 dollars worth of Canadian products, or 11,156,785 dollars worth more than the United States, and admitting nearly the whole free of all duty.
Preferential Trade within the Empire
21.—It is hardly to be expected that Canada, with her scanty and hard-working population could, with the example of every nation or colony (save one) before her, attempt to raise by direct taxation the twenty-four million dollars of public revenue she now derives from customs duties.
But there can be little doubt that if a preference was obtained for British over foreign goods in the tariff, it would give just that pecuniary advantage calculated to stimulate the undoubted partiality of most British colonists for British made goods, if they themselves are unable to produce them in adequate quantity.
Such preferential trade, large public meetings I have recently addressed in all the principal commercial centres, on behalf of the United Empire Trade League, have declared with practical unanimity and much support from both political parties, that Canada is willing to exchange with the mother country and the Empire, so soon as foreign treaty hindrances (treaties with Belgium and Germany of 1862 and 1865) are removed—it being calculated that no policy would more certainly advance the prosperity, peopling and capitalization of the whole country and the consequent augmentation of customers.
Means of Commercial Negotiation
22.—No more effective means either could probably be found to bring about that reduction of the United States tariff wall, so much desired both by the Dominion of Canada and the mother country, for it would furnish her Majesty's representatives with a weapon of commercial persuasion they now wholly lack in negotiating with foreign countries.
Effect of the McKinley Tariff
23.—It may be too early perhaps to judge definitely as to the effect of the McKinley tariff upon British trade in the United States, There can, however, be no doubt that in many industries, and especially among the receivers of wages in the United Kingdom, it will be very serious, and tend still further to extend the disproportion between the sales of America to Great Britain and the purchases by America of British goods, which have stood for some time in the adverse ratio of three to one.
Much Change not to be expected
24.—It is necessary, therefore, to say that while the organs of the democratic party in the United States and the sanguine views of American importers who are in personal or correspondence relations with England, encourage a hope that the McKinley tariff will be repealed or considerably modified in the near future, I am convinced that, as matters stand, such belief is to a great extent delusive.
In the first place the democratic majority in the House of Representatives, as at present constituted, is practically powerless in the face of a strong and hostile Senate, with an equal mandate from the people, and in the face too of an antagonistic President, to a great extent independent of either, with all his Ministers and machinery of government.
In the second place democratic leaders and advocates in every locality are eager to protest that they do not now desire free trade, do not dream of admitting duty free the productions of competing foreign workmen, and that they aim only at a reduction of the tariff.
Again, it is now well understood that the alleged rise in prices at the time of the election last year for Congress was artificial and impressed upon voters by skilful wire-pulling—such as the hiring of itinerant pedlars to perambulate the agricultural districts with household wares marked up at double cost; by urging democratic retail dealers to serve their party (and their tills) by demanding greatly increased sums for all goods during the campaign "in consequence of the new tariff."
Industrial Prosperity in the United States
25.—There appears to be little doubt that the Federal Commission now sitting will find that, although in some districts there may have been speculating failures, employment was never upon the whole more plentiful or better remunerated than at the present time. As in Canada so in the United States, it is work which is everywhere seeking hands—and not, as with us, men searching, too often vainly, for employment.
On both sides of the border between Canada and the United States the necessaries of life—wheat, flour, bread, meat, are extraordinarily cheap and excellent, while artisan clothing, so often reputed dear and pressing upon the family purse, is readily obtainable, so old Sheffield men have assured me, in very fair quality at from 8 dollars 50 cents. to 12 or 14 dollars per suit, that is 1l. 14s. to 2l. 16s. Indeed, before me is the advertisement of a New York house offering "Jersey Cloth (silk finish, new), blue, black or brown, per suit 14 dollars, quality XXX."
Beyond question the whole standard of industrial life is higher than in Europe—higher too, I am sorry to have to admit, than in Great Britain. Neither poverty nor distress are visible, while drunkenness, so far as it may exist, is kept carefully out of sight.
American Reciprocity Treaties
26.—It will be probably less, however, on the industrial prosperity of American workers, on the success of the high tariff in compelling competitors for the custom of the American people, to employ their capital within the United States, to pay wages to Americans, and use American materials, that the Republican party will appeal next year for a new Presidential lease of power (with what chance of success I do not pretend to prophecy), than upon the unexpected triumph that has attended Section III., or the Reciprocity clause of the McKinley Tariff Act in the hands of Mr. Secretary Blaine.
Already under its provisions free entry for American productions and manufactures has been secured into Brazil—a market taking in 1889 6,232,316l. worth of British goods—in exchange for the free entry of the raw materials and other commodities of that Republic so rich in natural wealth.
The same result has been achieved, and will shortly come into force with regard to Spanish possessions, taking together 8,000,000l. worth of British products every year.
To break up British Trade
27.—This latter treaty is viewed with especial concern in Canada, and the notice of terminating the Anglo-Spanish treaty of commerce which has been given, gives rise to a fear that the Americans will secure the trade with the Spanish Indies heretofore enjoyed by the Dominion.
Both treaties will also very injuriously affect the interests of the fishermen of Newfoundland, who among the Catholic population of Brazil and the territories of Spain seek the principal market for that dried fish, the sale of which, until improved fish trade and other mercantile relations are established with England, as they might easily be, constitutes their principal means of existence.
A like treaty has been concluded with San Domingo, and others are in active negotiation.
The vaunted object is "the breaking up piece-meal of British foreign trade," and whether or no it obtains that aim, the untoward influence these treaties, placing American trade upon a preferential basis, are calculated to exert in that direction, is not, I fear, a circumstance well calculated to induce the masses of the American people, in their present frame of mind, very speedily to destroy the instrument.
Effect of British Inaction
28.—It is a paramount duty to direct the attention of the Sheffield Chamber of Manufacture, as a body representative of the commercial and industrial community of Great Britain and Ireland, to this practical aspect of the present situation, lest buoyed up by a vain hope that the markets of the United States will be thrown open, England allows all opportunity to pass of following the example of America and Central Europe in establishing preferential trading relations on mutually advantageous terms. A commercial union richer in its prospects than any attainable by whatever phalanx of foreign nations, lies now, but not for much longer, ready to her hand—that of the British Empire, of a fifth of the entire world, peopled or fostered by her own people, capitalized by her own capital.
Inaction much longer maintained on the part of the mother country will be ascribed by the energetic minds of Greater Britain to callous indifference to Imperial responsibilities, and can have no other effect than to expose Canada, Newfoundland, the West Indies, British Guiana and British Honduras, aggregating not much short of half the area of the Empire, and not impossibly other Colonies, to the temptation of entering instead into commercial alliance with the United States, involving discrimination in favour of foreigners against the British flag, which even the loyalty of the most loyal Colonial subjects of her Majesty the Queen may not, with due regard to their material interests, be able to resist.
American Pioneers of Commerce
29.—But in any event I must note the amazing energy and push shown by American business houses. On every journey in nearly every quarter of the globe you meet their representatives, who lose no opportunity of skilfully advancing American trade; and while Germany, backed by a vigilant Government, is following closely in the same direction with astonishing results, the reports of her Majesty's Consular officers agree in declaring that the appearance of an English commercial traveller becomes more and more rare.
Boards of Trade
30.—American Boards of Trade, corresponding to our Chambers of Commerce, are also very active organizations, sparing neither expense nor trouble.
They occupy a like position in Canada, and in Toronto the Board of Trade—an enthusiastic meeting whereof I had the honour of addressing—has erected a palatial building, where business men meet daily for the mutual exchange of information and views. The turn of the market is recorded from hour to hour from the centres of commerce, and among the members there exists an admirable system of mutual life insurance.
Canada as a Field for British Capital and Immigration
31.—In conclusion, it is hardly possible to speak of Canada in exaggerated terms as a source from which Great Britain may most readily obtain the larger portion of the supply of corn, meat, and dairy produce, her increased population and diminished agriculture oblige her to purchase from over the sea.
The extremely fertile and virgin soil of the vast region occupied by Manitoba, the North-West Territories, and British Columbia—half the size of Europe, and lying between Lake Superior and the Pacific Ocean—has now been provided by British Canadian enterprise with a complete network of railways, bringing it, so soon as Atlantic communication by Nova Scotia and Newfoundland has been improved, to within fourteen days' steam of Liverpool.
Capital and immigration are alone needed for their development.
A better field for the former could not be found if British Commercial Union made the market secure of foreign caprice, while for steady industry under the old flag, under like institutions, under the same law, no wider scope exists in the universe.