Fredericton
Is situated in the County of York, on the west side of the river Saint John on an extensive flat opposite the Nashwaack, formerly called Saint Anns point. The river forms an elbow in front of the town, and the hills encircle the plain, and approach the river about two miles above the town leaving a spot of low land nearly four miles in length and in places over a mile in breadth.
The town is laid out in squares of eighteen lots containing one quarter of an acre each. The streets cross at right angles. Those that run parallel with the river are more than a mile in length, and are in places considerably well built up; the houses are all of wood and of different heights.
The inhabitants are the descendents of the Loyalists who came to the Province at the close of the American revolution, with a mixture of Europeans and Americans.
Fredericton being the seat of Government, contains besides a residence for the Lieutenant-Governor, a Provincial Hall, where the Supreme Courts and General Assemblies are held. This building contains a spacious room for the Supreme Courts, with several Jury rooms, a Council Chamber, and an Assembly Room, with other apartments and conveniences for the Legislative Body. Adjoining this building are the Offices of the Surveyor General and Secretary of the Province. – The other public buildings are a handsome square of Barracks with a Parade in front, where part of a Regiment of foot are usually quartered. – Barracks and Store-houses for a company of Royal Artillery with other buildings for the use of the troops.
A County Court-House, which also serves for a Market; a small commodious Church in a sightly situation, two neat Chapels, one belonging to the Baptists, and the other to the Methodists; a Catholic Chapel in progress; a Gaol, and a building occupied as a College till another one on an enlarged scale can be erected; a Poor House in the vicinity of the town, on a liberal scale; and a Meeting House belonging to a number of persons composed of congregationalists and other seceders from the Kirk of Scotland.
Government House is situated a little above the upper part of the town on a convenient pleasant site, but having been a long time without a settled family it was when Sir Howard Douglas came to the Province considerably out of order. It wants a wing to be added to make it uniform with other improvements: for although when the house was built for Governor Carleton it was on a liberal scale, considering the state of the Province at that time, it has been suffered to remain without enlargement, while the country has rapidly advanced. – It is, therefore, at present neither sufficiently spacious or splendid for the Governor's residence. – The same observations may apply to the Province Hall, which although always too low to make a good appearance or allow a good Council Chamber, was a good building considering the state of the country and want of revenue at the time it was erected; but is now too small and plain, considering the great increase of the population and trade of the Province.
Public buildings speak much, though silently, for the public spirit, taste, and importance of a country. They should, therefore, always be on such an enlightened scale as not to be a prejudice to it. One general observation may be made on all the public edifices in Fredericton, which is that being uniformly low they make a flat appearance, which is peculiarly striking to a stranger coming from countries where buildings are more elevated.
Probably there are few finer situations for a town than the site on which Fredericton is built. A beautiful river glides majestically in front of a spacious plain; bounded by hills of gentle acclivity, possessing elegant sites for seats and buildings on commanding situations. On the opposite side of the river the Nashwaack rolls its tribute to the Saint John and adds much to the beauty of the situation. Abundance of excellent water is every where found with a soil peculiarly well adapted for forming gardens, walks, &c. with a pure, healthy atmosphere. From the hills which skirt the town the river can be seen to a great distance winding through the country, till it is lost among the distant Islands.
Fredericton being at the head of the sloop navigation is the main depot for goods from the seaboard. It is about eighty-five miles from the sea and surrounded by a large extent of country which is fast settling. The river Saint John is about three quarters of a mile wide in front of the town, and extends upwards of four hundred miles above it. – The surrounding country possesses an excellent soil, and abounds in valuable timber, and as the whole of the trade to and from the upper country must pass Fredericton, a great part of it must of course centre there, and consequently, as the country becomes fully settled, Fredericton must improve and from its situation remain the great central emporium of the Province.
Fredericton contains a Printing Office and a Public Library, with the following public Institutions.
1. A Branch of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge.
2. The Bible Association of Fredericton and its vicinity.
3. A Branch of the Methodist Missionary Society.
4. The Fredericton Emigrant Society. This Society was formed at Fredericton in 1819, for the relief of destitute strangers, being the first Institution of that kind formed in the Province. It expended large sums in that and the following year, and besides relieving the temporary necessities of great numbers of destitute Emigrants, enabled many of them to settle on new land, who are now in comfortable independent circumstances. It is not at present in active operation, but has funds to a considerable amount.
5. The New-Brunswick Agricultural and Emigrant Society. This is a Provincial Institution having branches in the different Counties. The General Society being established at Fredericton.
6. A Branch of the Society for improving the breed of Horses and Cattle, and a Savings' Bank.
Fredericton was formed by Governor Carleton in 1785, shortly after the division of the Province from Nova-Scotia, and being considered the most eligible and central situation, was made the permanent Seat of Government. The policy of this measure has been questioned by many who overlook the general good of the country for partial advantages. Much jealousy has always existed among the Citizens of St. John in particular, in regard to this selection. Prejudices in favor of our own land, religion, institutions, &c. must always be expected, and to a certain degree it would show a want of attachment not to feel their influence; but then it must be remembered that when we allow our own interest to blind our reason, we are prone to view what concerns us with a partial eye. It is so with a person who being settled at the seaboard goes but seldom out of sight of the harbor, but from what is passing before his eyes, concludes his town is the only place of consequence in the country; and as nature has made it the great mart for the imports and exports of the interior, it must of course be likewise the only place fit for the Seat of Government, and every thing else of consequence in the Province. But when a person whose mind is above these mercenary considerations, and enlarged to see the general good of the country, casts his eye on the map of the Province, he will find that if the situation was as good a few miles farther up, it would still be more central. For Fredericton is only eighty-five miles from the sea; at the lower extremity of the County of York, which extends upwards to the Canada line about two hundred miles. The large County of Northumberland joins York on the North and Northeastward, and comprises all the land from Westmorland, along the Gulf and river of St. Lawrence, till it likewise joins Canada. These two Counties form more than two thirds of the whole Province; and will no doubt each require to be divided into two or more Counties, when they become more fully settled. Consequently the seat of Government is at present in the most eligible place for the general convenience of the inhabitants of the Province at large, than any other situation that possibly could be selected. Diverging as from a common centre, the distance of the routes from Fredericton to the most important parts of the Province are nearly equal, viz. to St. John is about eighty-five miles, passing four counties in the distance; to St. Andrews, the frontier town, about ninety miles; to Northumberland about the same distance; to Fort Cumberland in Westmorland, about one hundred and forty miles; and to Madawaska, the upper settlement on the great road to Canada, about the same distance.
In time of war, its situation for a military depot is excellent, as from the direction of the routes just mentioned, the different accessible parts of the Province could be easier succoured from here than any other station. And if reinforcements should have to pass through the Province to Canada during the winter season. Fredericton and the Great Falls would always, from their situation, be the natural depots for troops, stores, &c. Neither if magazines were formed at this place could there be more danger of their being surprised and taken, than at any of the sea-ports; for it is nearly one hundred miles from an enemy's frontier, and there must be a great want of vigilance if any body of men, sufficient to make an impression, should be allowed to approach without opposing effectual resistance, or at the worst, taking such measures as should disappoint them.
The importance of good accommodations for troops marching to Canada, at Fredericton, and the upper parts of the river St. John, was well ascertained during the last war, and should not soon be lost sight of.
In short, as nature has given St. John and the other sea-ports advantages that cannot be taken from them, so Fredericton, from its central situation, possesses advantages peculiar to itself. Instead, therefore, of indulging in such partial jealousies, every encouragement should be given to such towns, as they contribute to the improvement of the interior of a country from whence most of the resources that support the sea-ports are drawn.
Fredericton is slowly increasing in buildings and improvements. It has a considerable share in the lumber trade, for which it is well situated. Ship-building has also lately been commenced, and will probably be prosecuted to considerable extent as there are no want of good situations for launching, and abundance of timber.
If the main streets in Fredericton had been laid out to follow the windings of the river they would have formed an agreeable curve; the squares could then have been kept uniform in width, and the main streets could have continued without a jog, the whole length of the town, which would be a great improvement to the looks of the place.
Saint Andrews
The frontier town of New-Brunswick, lies nearly opposite Robinstown, in the State of Maine. It is a small pleasant sea-port in the County of Charlotte: being situated near the river Saint Croix, on a narrow strip of low land fronting the Bay of Passamaquoddy, with a range of hills in the rear. It has two principal streets, running parallel with the water, which are intersected by cross streets at right angles. The principal streets are well built up, and the town contains 2,268 inhabitants, according to the census taken in 1824. – It is conveniently situated for the fishing trade, as the waters abound with cod, haddock, pollock, and numbers of other fish, and there are numbers of small Islands nearly within view of the harbor, very suitable for prosecuting the fishery to advantage. It carries on a considerable trade in exporting squared and sawed lumber, and in ship-building – thirteen vessels were registered in the Port of Saint Andrews in 1824, amounting to three thousand six hundred and thirty-three tons, all of which had been built in the County, besides about five hundred and ninety tons, not included in the above amount. – It contains a neat Church belonging to the establishment, and a commodious Kirk, built at the sole expense of Mr. Christopher Scott, and presented by him to the members of the Kirk of Scotland. It has also a Grammar School, a Court-House and Gaol; a Printing Office, with a number of fine private buildings.
Here is likewise a Chamber of Commerce, a Savings' Bank, a Bible Society, an Agricultural and Emigrant Society for the County, with other public Institutions for promoting the temporal and spiritual welfare of the inhabitants.
Saint Andrews being situated on the frontiers of the Province, within view of the American territories, is a place of great importance in the event of a rupture with the United States. Considerable works were erected here during the last war, which are now much gone to decay. A few troops are, however, usually stationed here. At the Commencement of the last troubles with America, an agreement was wisely entered into between the Magistrates of this place, and the American authorities in its immediate vicinity, to abstain from mutual hostilities, which was strictly observed during the war, to the mutual advantage of both parties; who were thereby delivered from the horrors of a predatory, murderous warfare, equally distressing to both nations.
Saint Andrews being the shire town of the important County of Charlotte, is silently rising into importance; and will no doubt from its many natural advantages, always maintain its rank among the principal towns of this Province.
CHAPTER V
Topographical Description of the several Counties in the Province of New-Brunswick. Their Boundaries and Extent. Parishes. Rivers. Settlements, Produce, &c. Great Roads, &c
Having, in the preceding pages, given a brief general description of New-Brunswick, I shall now proceed to give a short sketch of each County, comprising a view of the face of the country, principal streams, settlements, produce, &c. And as five of them lie along the river St. John, I shall begin at the head of that river, and follow it to its exit into the Bay of Fundy. The three remaining counties will be noticed afterwards. Following this method, (which by keeping the counties and parishes distinct, will give the reader a clearer knowledge of the country than a more elaborate account, where names and situations are mentioned without method, and described promiscuously) I shall confine myself to brevity, at the same time endeavouring to avoid obscurity; and have to lament that the want of correct information prevents me from making this part of the work as complete as I could wish.
SECTION I
York
This County commences at the Canada line, which bounds it on the north-west. The County of Northumberland bounds it on the north-east, on the south-east it adjoins Sunbury, and on the south-west Charlotte, and contains 10,972 inhabitants.
Beginning at the northern and uppermost part of the county, and proceeding down the main river St. John, the first settlement is Madawaska, situated between the Grand Falls and the Madawaska river, which falls into the St. John at the upper part of the settlement. The inhabitants are the descendants of the old Acadians, who were settled on different parts of the river St. John, and who on the arrival of the English moved up to this place, where, being joined by others from Canada, they formed this settlement distinct from the English, and have ever since been quiet subjects, and well affected to the British Government. Madawaska is about midway between Fredericton and Quebec, and is in a flourishing state. It has a Romish Chapel, where the rites and ceremonies of that religion are duly performed by a Missionary from Canada, who likewise, with the assistance of one or two leading persons regulates the internal police of the settlement by settling disputes, keeping the peace, &c. and so successful have they been that although there are neither lawyers or magistrates in the place, the Courts of Justice have had but little trouble from that quarter. The land along the margin of the river is in general good, level, and unbroken; but owing to its northern situation it is unfavourable to Indian corn; but wheat, oats, grass, &c. flourish there in great perfection. The inhabitants are all farmers, and generally raise more than they can consume, having a surplus of grain to sell to traders in the settlement or to take to Fredericton. Their manners and habits being simple, they expend but little on luxuries. Their women manufacture a coarse cloth and kerseys sufficient for their own consumption. The men are about the middle size, generally spare built and active; the women, on the contrary, are very stout and short. They are very lively and hospitable, but very slovenly in their houses and cookery. In short, they appear a different race from the English. A stranger going above the Falls, finds himself suddenly among a new race of people, different in their language, religion, habitations, and manners.
Below this settlement the country is a wilderness for some distance, comprising the lands adjoining and below the Grand Falls.
The isthmus formed by the bend of the river at the Grand Falls, was formerly cleared by the troops stationed at that post. This spot was selected at the first settlement of the Province for a military station. It served not only as a security for the settlers at that period, when the country was a total wilderness and almost impassable, being without roads or habitations, but also connected and secured the communication with Canada. Barracks, &c. were constructed and troops stationed at this place for a number of years. The works are at present in ruins; although it is no doubt one of the first interior positions in the Province. This place forms one of the great features of New-Brunswick. Here the navigation of the great river St. John is totally obstructed, and the upper part of the country disjoined from the seaboard. This points out the great importance of its situation, as the great connecting point and centre for the intercourse and trade of the upper country, whenever it becomes fully settled. Its situation will no doubt soon attract a settlement, and in process of time a town will arise, which will be the depot for goods from the seaboard, where they will be exchanged for the produce of the upper part of the country. A canal or tunnel cut through the isthmus, will probably follow. This would be of the utmost advantage to the Province, by connecting the navigation and developing the resources of the upper country, which are said to be almost inexhaustible. The distance to cut would be nearly one hundred rods. The isthmus being ninety rods across, from bank to bank, the descent of the water would be nearly half an inch to a foot.
Descending the St. John seven miles below the falls, it receives the Salmon river, a considerable stream from the east, and eleven miles farther the Restook falls into it from the westward. This is a fine river, running in a very crooked direction through a fine country abounding in excellent land and well stored with timber of the first quality. It makes to the southwest and has been explored upwards of one hundred miles, where it continues of a good width. It is supposed to be of great length and is claimed by the United States, although some of the British settlers have lately commenced establishing themselves on the river and are making very free with the pine. Three miles below the Restook, the Tobique, named for its red pines, brings its tribute to the St. John. This is another considerable river, being upwards of two hundred miles in length. Its banks to a good distance back have been covered with pines of the finest growth, which have been mostly cut off. The soil in the pine districts is not favorable for farming pursuits, but would require much labor to bring it to a state fit for cultivation. There are, however, some good Islands in the course of the river, and strips of rich land intermixed with the pine districts, and the lands adjoining the Tobique lying along the banks of the Saint John are of the finest quality; and where cultivated produce the most abundant crops. A district comprising ten miles extending along the river Saint John and embracing both sides of the Tobique is reserved for the Indians. This tract is certainly not inferior to any land in the Province, and it is a pity it should remain in its present unimproved state. The Indians have only a small clearing at the mouth of the Tobique, where they have a hut which is reserved as a Chapel, and where one or two Indians generally sit down as they term it, to watch a small crop, and keep possession.
After the peace with America in 1814, a number of disbanded, men of the 8th, 98th, and 104th regiments, and of the West-India Rangers and New-Brunswick Fencibles, were settled on this part of the river Saint John, chiefly between the military post of Presqu-Isle and the Indian reserve. Many of these settlers have made good improvements, and have already secured a comfortable independency. The wilderness has been converted into cultivated fields, covered with habitations; and the district formed into a Parish, and named after his Royal Highness the late Duke of Kent. – It extends on both sides of the river from the Grand Falls to the Parish of Wakefield. The land is of a superior quality, covered with a variety of timber of the tallest growth, and unincumbered with much undergrowth; the trees standing in most places so far apart, that a man on horse-back would be but seldom incommoded by them. This is of great advantage to the settler, as it relieves him from the great labor of clearing away the under brush, which is so troublesome in some parts of the country. Nor is this fine tract of land confined to the margin of the river, but extends back, and is found in many places to improve as you advance into the interior. The United States line approaches the river St. John within a few miles along this Parish, and they have a township laid out, embracing Mars Hill before described. It is to be regretted that many of the settlers in this Parish having formerly been accustomed to the free use of spirituous liquors, find the temptation revived by the great introduction of them by the lumber speculators, who in many instances are drawing the settlers from their domestic habits, to which they began to be accustomed, to a dissipated mode of living, to the loss of their morals and property.
Descending the Saint John, which every few miles receives the tribute of some considerable creek or river, we arrive at the Presqu-Isle. This was formerly a military post; Barracks, &c. having been erected at this place shortly after the American revolution sufficient to accommodate three companies of foot, which are now in ruins. A few soldiers were stationed here till 1822, since which period the place has been totally abandoned as a military station. The bank at this place is high and the spot where the Barracks stood very pleasant, commanding a fine view of the adjacent country, having a beautiful Island directly in front. To a contemplative mind this spot must be interesting when he reflects that the soldiers who forced their way from Fredericton through the wilderness to construct these works, have fallen by the sword and disease; that the men who projected them, as well as those who superintended their construction, are mouldering in their graves – that the conductors of the boats which transported the supplies are now no more – and that the boats are now in view from the site of the Barracks lying in the bushes and falling gradually to pieces. – If he is an old settler, this must have past within his memory, and may teach him the instability of all human affairs. Eight miles below the Presqu-Isle a stream called the Pekagomique falls into the Saint John on the eastern side. The land on this stream is very good, and a settlement is begun a few miles from its mouth, it has good mills and is well stored with timber. There are several other streams in the Parish of Wakefield, which extends on both sides of the river, till it joins Woodstock on the western and Northampton on the eastern side about sixty-three miles above Fredericton. It is a flourishing Parish, the land being of a good quality, the farms along the river are improving, and back settlements forming.
Woodstock is generally well settled. The houses are neat, and make a fine appearance as the traveller passes along the river. There are some fine islands in this part of the river, which enrich the settlers by their produce. – There is an Episcopal Church in this Parish, which has been filled ever since its erection by the Rev. Mr. Dibblee, who likewise officiates occasionally in the adjoining Parishes. The river Madaxnikik passes through this Parish to its exit into the Saint John, and adds to its importance, as several settlements are making along its banks. This stream has a series of cataracts, and passes by the American settlement of Houlton which lies directly in the rear of Woodstock, and commences about fifteen miles from the Saint John. From this settlement there is a road to the Penobscot river. Eel river falls into the Saint John near the lower part of Woodstock. This river heads near the sources of the Saint Croix; a short portage leads from the waters of one river to the other. Opposite Woodstock on the eastern side of the river lies the Parish of Northampton, which extends down to Queensbury. This Parish is well settled, as is the adjoining Parish of Queensbury. Several streams intersect these Parishes, the most considerable of which are the Nachiwikik and Mactuqaack.
The farms along this part of the country, are in many places well improved: but the soil is not equal to the upper part of the river. There are, however, a succession of fine Islands, which compensate for the inferiority of the upland.
There is an Episcopal Church at the lower part of Queensbury, which is filled occasionally by the Rev. Mr. Somerville, President of the College of New-Brunswick, and itinerant Missionary for this part of the country.
Prince William adjoins Woodstock on the Western side of the river. The upper part of this Parish is but little improved, a large district belonging to the Chief Justice being mostly a wilderness. The soil, likewise, is inferior to the land above. The lower part of the Parish is, however highly improved, some parts being interval land of the first quality. There are several fine lakes back of this parish, one of which named Lake George, has a fine settlement on its banks. This lake discharges its waters into the St. John, by a stream called the Poquihouk, which is an Indian name, signifying a dreadful place, and a dreadful place it certainly is. The water just before its exit into the St. John, appears to have been originally pent up by the high bank along the river. Through this it has forced a passage, and tumbles down the rocks and precipices with dreadful impetuosity. The passage through which it passes is very narrow and nearly seventy feet perpendicular, composed of large stones, which appear as if they had been laid by Masons; the whole forming a sublime and terrific appearance. There is a Chapel belonging to the Baptists in this Parish.
Several of the officers and men of the King's American Dragoons were formerly settled here, very few of whom are at present alive. Some of their descendants are occupying their lands and doing well.
The Parish of Kingsclear, which adjoins Prince William, has nothing peculiar, the soil being much the same as the latter. The face of the country is hilly, interspersed with several streams well adapted for mill seats. Many individuals of the reduced Battalion of the New Jersey Volunteers settled in this Parish, some of whom are still living and doing well. A Baptist Chapel has lately been erected here, in which worship is occasionally performed. Opposite this Parish on the eastern side of the river is the Parish of Douglas, so called in honor of the present Lieutenant-Governor of the Province. It adjoins Queensbury, and extends down nearly to the Nashwaack. The Madam Keswick, a considerable stream, intersects this Parish. This is an extensive settlement, and was formed by the York Volunteers and some of the Royal Guides and Pioneers. The settlements on the Keswick Ridge and Mactuquask lie between this stream and the main river, and are in a flourishing state. It has a back settlement on the Nashwacksis and another one still farther in the wilderness, called Cardigan, formed by a number of Welsh families from Cardigan in Wales, who came to this Province in 1819, and were located here by Government. Being very destitute, they were enabled to commence settling by a subscription of the inhabitants of Fredericton, aided by the Emigrant Society. This Parish has a Church near the mouth of the Madam Keswick, and two Chapels belonging to the Methodists and Baptists.
The Parish of St. Mary's, which formerly included the Parish just mentioned, extends to the County line, and joins Maugerville on the eastern side of the river. The river Nashwaack runs through this Parish, and falls into the St. John opposite Fredericton. This stream was settled by part of the 42d Regiment and some of the disbanded corps that had been raised in America during the war. It is settled for more than thirty miles along its banks, having a mixture of good intervale and high land along its course. About five miles from its confluence with the St. John, it receives the waters of the Peniack, a considerable stream with a settlement along its banks, and about twelve miles further up, the river Tay falls into it. There are two Chapels in this settlement, one belonging to the Methodists and the other to the Baptists. They have no stated Ministers, but are visited occasionally. The road from Fredericton to Miramichi in the County of Northumberland leads through this settlement.